In Switzerland, the cost of tiling generally ranges from 50 to 200 CHF per m², including materials. Labour alone often costs between 45 and 80 CHF per m², depending on the tile size. The final price depends mainly on the condition of the substrate, the size chosen and the range of tiles.
How much does it cost to have tiles laid?
| Item | Approximate price |
|---|---|
| Tiles laid, including materials | approx. 50 to 200 CHF/m² |
| Laying only, 10–30 cm tiles (floor) | from approx. 45 CHF/m² |
| Installation only, mosaic (floor or wall) | approx. 80 CHF/m² |
| Substrate preparation | from approx. 10 CHF/m², considerably more if the screed needs replacing |
| Tiler’s travel costs | often approx. 100 CHF |
Sources: Neho for the general price range, and the Hornbach Switzerland tiling price list for labour. These figures vary depending on the canton, town and access to the site: only quotes are binding.
Sample budget
For 15 m² of flooring with 60 × 60 cm mid-range tiles, on a substrate in good condition, you can expect the following figures:
- installation: 15 m² × approx. 60 CHF = 900 CHF;
- tiles: 15 m² + 10 per cent allowance × the chosen price per m²;
- adhesive, grout, trims and travel costs are extra.
The price of tiles varies significantly depending on the range and size. This is often what makes the difference between two quotes: ask for the price per m² of the tiles to be listed separately in the quote.
Factors affecting the price
- The substrate: a flat, sound floor can be tiled directly; a damaged floor requires a screed or levelling compound.
- The size: small-format tiles and mosaics take longer to lay; very large-format tiles require a perfectly level substrate and often two people.
- The room: a bathroom (cutting, waterproofing, corners) costs more per square metre than a large living room.
- The laying pattern: straight-line laying is the cheapest; diagonal or herringbone patterns involve more cutting and produce more offcuts.
- Removal of the old flooring and disposal of waste.
The steps involved in tiling
- Choose the tiles and order 10 per cent extra to allow for cuts and future repairs.
- Remove the old flooring if necessary.
- Prepare the substrate: it must be clean, dry and level; apply levelling compound or a screed if necessary.
- Waterproof wet areas (shower, bathroom) before tiling.
- Lay the tiles using tile adhesive, starting from a central reference point to ensure an even distribution of offcuts.
- Grout the joints once the adhesive has dried, then apply flexible sealant (silicone) in the corners and around the sanitary fittings.
Keep a few spare tiles in the cellar: if one breaks, it’s often impossible to find exactly the same batch years later.
Choosing the right tiles
- Porcelain stoneware: very durable, low-porosity, suitable for all rooms and often for outdoor use. This is the most common choice.
- Earthenware: more fragile, best used on walls only.
- Natural stone: attractive but more expensive and requires more maintenance.
- Non-slip: essential in walk-in showers, on patios and on stairs.
- Large-format wood or stone effect tiles: very popular in bathrooms today.
Should you hire a professional?
A small wall area can be done yourself. For floors, bathrooms or large-format tiles, a professional tiler will prevent uneven surfaces, hollow-sounding tiles and leaks. In buildings constructed or renovated before 1990, the old tile adhesive may contain asbestos: have it analysed before demolition (Suva).